Buddhism 101

I spent a few days in Palampur exploring the area, with vague intentions of heading to Dharamsala afterwards, followed by Manali, and planning the next big destination (either Nepal, via Uttarkhand, spending some time with another family I met on the train from Bhopal, or Kashmir to try to go overland to Pakistan then China).

Vishal kindly made a list of suggestions of things to see the next day. As I set out, I enjoyed, as I always do, noticing the small differences between states in India. The way the people dress, the way the buses look, the way they treat foreigners, etc. I felt less stared at in Northern India, but I also felt a certain coldness from the people.

Tashijong Gate

The first thing on the list was Tashijong monastery, which happened to be located in a small exiled Tibetan colony of the same name. These settlements dot the Himachal landscape with increasing frequency as you go North. It was my first introduction to this culture, and it was quite a shock! Leaving the Indian roads and people behind, I entered into another world (quite literally), and it was rather unexpected. After passing through the settlement gate, I noticed a few Tibetans minding their own business, dressed rather modernly, NOT staring at the white girl. I felt transposed, and safe. It was strange to feel like I could let my guard almost entirely down. It felt a little like being in Montreal's Chinatown!

I walked around the streets, mesmerised, and awkward all over again. All but my legs and sense of awe were paralysed, so I didn't even take many photos initially. I headed towards the temple that I had seen on the hill from the main road, and I could hear drums. As I approached, I stumbled upon some sort of ceremony taking place; dancers performing in front of the temple, with a crowd surrounding the area, and a row of monks at the far end. Children sitting on the grass, old people sitting on chairs spinning prayer wheels. Surreal. A few foreigners were attending as well. I couldn't help noticing the way the people dressed, after being so used to seeing salwar kameez and saris for months. The older folks were dressed in more traditional Tibetan dress, while the younger ones were rather hip and modern.

Eventually, I mustered the courage to strike up a conversation with a tall and handsome stranger watching the ceremony. I asked him, still somewhat dazed and unaccustomed to everything around me, if he knew what was going on. Well, wouldn't you know it, I had stumbled upon the perfect person for that opening question. Go me! Enter Eric, a student from the States, who had been staying at Tashijong for a month now, and had studied Buddhism for years in both China and Tibet before finally making his way to India as well.

It turned out it was a Puja that had been going on for a few days now, and the following day was supposed to be the final day - the blessing. I kept asking more and more questions, ravenously curious about this entirely new culture I had stumbled upon, after months of attempting to learn bits and pieces of Hinduism. This was turning into a pretty cool conversation, so Eric invited me to the small Tibetan café below where he was staying. (Uh oh, welcome to the world of momos; I used to love them until I got crazy sick after eating a bad batch in Goa) After going through some of the formalities about our own lives, we returned to the topic of Buddhism. It was clear that Eric had gained so much knowledge from his studies and life abroad, and if there's one thing I love when I need to get out of my own confused head a bit, it's listening to people passionate about what they do.

Tashijong house

I had already learned so much in only a short time speaking together, when we had to part. But Eric invited me to the blessing ceremony the following day, as well as to a series of talks he had been meaning to attend, given by an apparently famous nun in a nearby town, where meditation courses were also possible (I had mentioned to him my wish to try out the Vipassana course in Dharamsala). I was still unsure whether I wanted to go to any of these, but we exchanged phone numbers and I told him we'll see how things go and that I'll try to make it tomorrow.

I still had one more destination planned out before the end of the day (all recommended by Vishal). I walked to nearby Baijnath (where I had gotten lost earlier with the buses, trying to find Tashijong), and visited the impressive Shiva temple in town. I sat for some time inside, as a tribute to my temple excursions with Martin in Hampi. Finally, I found a nice spot outside to watch the sunset, took out my knife and a pomegranate, and was ready to dig in when I saw them. Evil monkeys. I had to keep moving to avoid their hungry glares, eating my pomegranate messily on the go. When I was finished, my face and my hands must have looked like a murder scene.

Shiva mandir

So I headed back "home", after what I deemed a rather successful and awesome first day in the towns around Palampur. I recounted the adventures of the day as excited as a hyperactive child who's just seen something cool blow up, and Vishal nodded and smiled as he strummed his guitar :)

Photos: Tashijong & Baijnath